Ramadan Fasts 'Normal' for Langkawi Muslims

Sitifara Ilyani, 5: In training for Ramadan fasts 

  Story and photos by Carola C. Reuben, Earthy Reporter

A young Muslim Malay woman fasted all day the first two days of Ramadan, but when she accompanied two foreign infidels to lunch at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club, she decided to give up her fast.

When Norsafura was about to choose from a menu that included burgers as well as curries, the smile faded from the waitress’s face. “We do not serve Muslims (during the day),“ the waitress said firmly. “Even the management said so. It is Ramadan.“

Norsafura, who calls herself Aura ( photo, below ), did not order lunch. Later while Muslim eyes were not watching, she picked up her favorite meal of doughnuts from Big Apple Donuts & Coffee at the Langkawi ferry station.

Elsewhere in Langkawi, however, Muslims apparently kept on fasting. Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, and sexual relations from sunrise to sunset during the month of Ramadan, which is based on the Muslim calendar. It is a time for Muslims to learn about patience, humility, and spirituality, according to Wikepedia.

During Ramadan in Langkawi, it seemed like it was business as usual. At Maybank in downtown Kuah, colors burst from the row of women working as tellers in ankle-length skirts with theirs arms, necks, and hair covered. They were dressed modestly, Muslim style, but with a Malaysian flair of colors, including brilliant pink and lime green.

I asked one of the ladies how she can fast and work at the same time. With a smile that lit up a face framed inside a bright yellow scarf, she said, “It is normal.“

At the posh Bon Ton Restaurant located in front of a rice paddy, I asked a waitress how she can fast while serving platters of coconut lamb curry and barbecued shrimp. She said, “It is normal.“

Amanda, owner of Amanda‘s Cafe, explained how she grew up with partial fasts since she was very small. By the time she was 12, a full day’s fast felt “normal.”

The ability to fast is “a mindset,” declared Jaffri Kahn, who was fasting while working at his father’s store, SK Intertrade, a print shop that also caters to “yachties” with items such as used books in English and flags from different countries.

On an island that is close to 90% Muslim Malay, it is also normal for followers of the faith to wait with their plates full, just before sunset.

At the Flamingo Café in the Bayview Hotel, couples and families were waiting for the iftar, the fast-breaking meal. They sat in front of plates brimming with dishes from the special Ramadan buffet, chicken curry seasoned with anise, beef soup prepared with cloves and cinnamon sticks, fish topped with hot pepper soy sauce; tom yam soup with lemon grass and kaffir lime leaves, banana pancakes, shrimp, roast lamb with fresh mint sauce.

Finally the moment arrived. The muezzin’s mournful drone filled the restaurant, “Allah u’aqbar…” Some of the fasters raised their arms to the sky. The same melodic prayer in Arabic was being broadcast to fasters throughout the mountains and rainforests of Langkawi.

 Copyright, 2010, Carola C. Reuben, Earthy Reporter

Langkawi Crocodiles no Longer under Curse

 

Mutalib feeds just a mouthful, about 10 fish or so, to each crocodile at the Langkawi Crocodile Farm.


 Photos and story by Carola C. Reuben, Earthy Reporter


Kholil coaxes a one-ton crocodile out of a pool.

 Against the backdrop of mountains covered with rainforest, Mutalib feeds fish dinners to crocodiles in Langkawi, Malaysia. Each crocodile receives just a mouthful, about10 fish.    
Before the feeding frenzy at the Langkawi Crocodile Farm, tourists focused their cameras on a show. Udat the d.j. announced every crocodile move to the beat of disco, African drums, and the theme song from the movie, “Exodus."
The farm’s largest crocodile, more than 20 feet long and weighing a ton, made a splash hit as it was coaxed out of a pool by Kholil.

Kholil pets a crocodile while his assistants watch the routine.

Head showman, Kholil, stroked the animal’s huge head while tourists gasped, "o ! ay!", and his assistants, Mutalib and Khairul, again watched the daily routine (photo, below). There were 10 or so Thai tourists, a family from India, and a few white tourists, perhaps from Australia or Europe.
In addition to their shows, the more than 1000 crocodiles on the farm provide pelts and meat for sale. The crocodiles live among paths landscaped with banana trees, palm trees, and flowers ( photo,left, below), par for the course in Langkawi, designated as a “geopark" by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization ( UNESCO.
Mostly green coveres the island, some 60% forest, mountains, mangroves, and shrubs, and about 20% agricultural land. Some 64,000 people live on the island, the largest one in an archipelago of 99 islands.

Crocs live in greenery of a UNESCO geopark 

This enchanted island was apparently cursed for seven generations by Mahsuri. The lady with “lips akin the sweet and luscious pomegranate ” was the consort of the sole Minister to the Sultan of Kedah in Langkawi, according to information at the Mahsuri Mausoleum.
Mahsuri was executed for adultery for allegedly betraying the Minister to the Sultan. When she was killed, she bled white blood, which proved her innocence, according to the legend. “Her blood, white as that of milk, gushed from her wound, leaving all of Langkawi in silent numbness.”
The seven generations cursed by Mahsuri have already passed through the island since she was put to death in 1819.
The island gets its name from a small brown eagle called langkawi in the Malay language; and now, small brown eagles glide peacefully above the mountains, waterfalls, beaches, and crocodiles of Langkawi. It is apparent that "Sumpahan Mahsuri" (the Mahsuri curse) has ended.
Copyright, 2010, Carola C. Reuben, Earthy Reporter
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